Fashion as an Instrument of Change: Insights into Adaptive Clothing Design

Fashion has always been, for me, a tool for improving the existing state of things. Whether I’m advocating for genderless fashion and the right of all people to freely express themselves visually, or responding to the aggression against my people by using digital tools to fight the invaders’ false propaganda on the international stage—or, more personally, answering the call of my father, who lost his legs on the frontline due to russian drones, by developing adaptive clothing for prosthesis users—the tools are not what matters. What matters is the persistent and painful feeling of injustice and the search for ways to compensate for it.

Earlier this summer, I started studying at the Adapt Academy by VORN and Zalando. This year, the academy is focused on the development of adaptive designs for people with various disabilities, a focus that deeply resonates with the growing needs of an audience within my country. People of different ages, faiths, social statuses, gender identities, and sexual orientations have all mobilized to defend the set of values that unite us and create the political nation of Ukraine. More and more people, in this fight, are losing their limbs. Thanks to our doctors, innovative rehabilitation centers, and the efforts of volunteers and paramedics, they return to active life, overcoming pain and doubts. Yet, when they are ready to pursue their dreams again, the obstacle of non-functional, conventional clothing makes mobility a problem.

As part of my studies, working on the creation of adaptive clothing for prosthesis users who lost limbs on the front, I spoke to many men and women who, on the surface, say everything is fine (after all, they are heroes by nature), and it takes some effort to unpack their points of pain. But I was able to chart this path and, after gathering data, I now have the opportunity to give back for their heroism by trying to make their new lives a bit more comfortable. I’ve tried to design not for them but with them. Perhaps the direct connection and relevance to the audience helped me on this way, as I’ve constantly been able to align my thoughts with my father, who lost both of his legs on the front. And with my mother, who is the main problem-solver for all of my father’s needs. He never liked shopping for clothes, and now the difficulty of choosing the right garments for him has grown exponentially. And of course with the great help of Superhumans Rehabilitation Center that allowed me to speak with prosthesis users in focus groups and all that people who responded to my google form.

With that said, I’d like to share a few insights from my research. These are aggregated data points from the surveys, and while they may seem obvious to some, they may also be helpful to others developing adaptive solutions. So:

Key Challenges During Dressing Most respondents indicated issues with putting on standard clothing over prosthetics, especially pants. The main challenges are:

• Narrow pant legs: These are difficult to pull over prostheses, and many resort to adding zippers for convenience.
• Fabric snagging on parts of the prosthesis, especially with lightweight summer clothing.
• Difficulty putting on garments over the head for those with arm prostheses or threading the arm into a sleeve.
• Several participants noted that these problems lead to rapid wear and tear: pants wear out near the prosthesis, and fabric snags or even tears.

Challenges While Wearing Clothing Difficulties also arise during wear:

• Clothing often snags on elements of the prosthesis, causing discomfort and reducing its functionality.
• Fabric wears down in areas that come into contact with the prosthetic socket.
• More room is needed around the stump socket and the knee area for comfortable movement.

Preferred Fastenings Most users prefer zippers. They allow for a wider opening for the prosthesis and make dressing easier. It was often mentioned that pants or sleeves with full-length zippers are an ideal solution for these cases. Some participants also considered magnetic buttons, though they expressed concerns about potential interference with bionic prosthetics.

Pocket Placement Respondents pointed out that pocket placement is important. Most prefer side pockets at hip level. For prosthetic arm users, patch pockets are a convenient option.

Innovations Users Would Like to See Survey participants shared their ideas for additional features in adaptive clothing:

• Modular garments with fully detachable parts. This could significantly simplify dressing and undressing and enhance the versatility of clothing.
• Reinforced fabric in areas that experience the most wear, such as knees or areas in contact with the prosthesis.
• Clothing adapted for those with external fixation devices, such as the Ilizarov apparatus. This is a distinct category to consider, as such individuals cannot wear standard clothing, and shorts often snag on elements of the device.

Clothing Lacking in the Market Users particularly highlighted the following categories of clothing:

• Denim: It is popular but often uncomfortable for prosthesis users due to its stiffness and limited stretch.
• Sportswear/functional clothing: In many cases, clothing that maximizes freedom of movement and comfort for an active lifestyle is needed.
• Formalwear: Adaptive clothing for special occasions, like wedding suits or business attire, is essential alongside everyday wear.

In the end, I’ve decided to focus my efforts on creating comfortable jeans. I’ll share more about the details of my decision and the semiotic keys embedded in it in future posts.